Cyprus: an island divided

how to make the most of your stay and avoid entering illegally

know before you go…

Cyprus is an island nation in the Mediterranean, renowned for its idyllic beaches and rich, fascinating history. However, its past has left the island divided, raising profound questions about national sovereignty and international borders. Understanding this division is key to fully appreciating your visit and avoiding potential issues—such as inadvertently entering the island illegally, as I did.

“Entering Northern Cyprus from Turkey, either by plane of ferry, could cause unnecessary complications later in your trip…”

A Land Between Worlds

Cyprus, like many Mediterranean islands, has deep cultural and historical ties to Greece; its mythology, artifacts, and traditions reflect this connection. Yet, its strategic location—nestled between Europe and the Middle East—has made it a coveted gateway between East and West, leading to centuries of foreign occupation. Notably, The Ottoman Empire claimed Cyprus in 1571, marking the beginning of centuries of dual religious and cultural recognition. The Ottomans officially acknowledged two dominant faiths: Islam and Greek Orthodoxy. This recognition set the stage for Cyprus's enduring identity as a land of two communities, even as high taxes, persecution, and Greek Cypriot resistance created friction under Ottoman rule.

In 1878, the British took control of Cyprus under the Cyprus Convention, officially making it a Crown Colony by 1925. However, British rule introduced its own challenges. In the mid-20th century, internment camps were established to detain Jewish refugees, many of whom were survivors of the Holocaust, as they fled to Palestine in an effort to control their numbers, with the British government wary of the Zionist groups forming in Palestine. These camps were closed shortly after the established of the state of Palestine, only to be reopened from 1955 to 1959 in order to imprison members of the Greek Cypriot nationalist organization EOKA - then conservative freedom fighters seeking independence from British rule.

If you’re interested in this confronting piece of history, you can visit Polemi Concentration Camp just a 25 minute drive north of the city of Paphos. Alternatively, you can catch the B7 Bus from Paphos to Kamanterena Winery and walk the rest of the way. There’s not much left of the camp, which is now a museum, except a bunker, watch tower, some barbed wire and pair of military vehicles but, if you’re interested in history, it’s worth the visit.

Independence and Division

In 1960 England would relinquish control over Cyprus in 1960, while maintaining some of its military bases on the island, leaving the country under the leadership of Archbishop Makarios III, a Greek Cypriot suspected of being a leading member of the EOKA. Whilst independence was seen generally seen as positive for much of Cyprus’ Greek Cypriot community, many Turkish Cypriots advocated for the continuation of British rule in Cyprus, fearing a repetition of what had only recently occurred on the island of Crete, where the 1913 Enosis, or union with Greece, led to the mass exodus of Crete’s Turkish/Muslim Cretan minority.

Despite this, tensions between Greek and Turkish Cypriots continued to rise as Cyprus’ leaders sought Enosis with Greece through a referendum that excluded the Turkish Cypriot community. This act seemed to confirm the fears of the Turkish Cypriot minority, who felt they would soon be evicted from their homes. This all came to a head in 1974 when the independent government of Cyprus was overthrown by a coup d'état orchestrated by Greece. Turkey, fearing for its community on the island, intervened militarily, occupying the northern part of Cyprus.

The result was a divided island: the Republic of Cyprus in the south and the self-declared Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus in the north, recognized only by Turkey. To this day, the Turkish military remains in Northern Cyprus, known in Turkey as
The Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus, perpetuating a conflict that the international community has yet to resolve.

Crossing the border from Northern Cyprus to Southern is as simple as showing your passport at one of three key checkpoints in the capital city of Nicosia. Existing somewhere between North and South Cyprus is a region of territory overseen by the United Nations peace teaching corps known as the “Buffer Zone.” It is possible to visit sections of the buffer zone, with the famous Ledra Palace Hotel sitting at the aptly named Ledra Palaca crossing, and with some villages, such as Athienou, still existing in the region of the buffer zone north of Larnaca.

It is also possible to apply for permission from the United Nations to visit Nicosia Airport, which has been left dormant and abandoned since 1974, for media or artistic purposes. The application process is simple and, in my experience, a member of the peace keeping corps will typically get back to you within a week. Applications are likely to be accepted if promote an unbiased and objective view of this complicated situation. Applications can be made here: https://unficyp.unmissions.org/buffer-zone-permits-0

A Complicated Border & an illegal crossing

Not everyone is happy with the United Nations efforts to keep the peace.

This division creates unique challenges for travelers. Entering Northern Cyprus via Turkey might seem straightforward, but it carries diplomatic consequences. Turkey considers such travel domestic, yet the global community views it as crossing into Cyprus illegally, bypassing proper border controls. Functionally this will have little impact on your trip, outside of some stern words when crossing one of Nicosia’s many crossing points. But it’s possible this discrepancy could cause complications if you choose to try fly out of the south of Cyprus and, from an international standpoint, you haven’t officially entered the country. As such, entering Northern Cyprus from Turkey, either by plane of ferry, could cause unnecessary complications later in your trip.

Cyprus’s division also complicates its ambitions for full Schengen integration. Allowing only the south to join the Schengen Zone would formalize the island’s split and necessitate stricter controls along the buffer zone—a strip of land monitored by the UN and largely uninhabited. The buffer zone itself is a peculiar limbo, home to little more than silence, abandoned buildings, and an unusual Shiv temple.

But it’s this limbo that can be particularly compelling for many tourists. In the Northern Cyprus city of Famagusta, one can visit Maras, the once beautiful shores of Cyprus’ bustling beach resorts has now been left abandoned and uninhabited. Many toursits flocks to this destination, creating an interesting juxtaposition of crumbling homes, hotels and places of business now occuupied by bike riding tourists eager for a selfie amongst the rubble.

the curiosities of cyprus

Beyond the buffer zone and the island’s history, there are many other reasons to visit Cyprus. For a start, it’s home to stunning hikes and beautiful beaches. Beyond its natural attractions, there are plenty of interesting places to explore, such as diving among shipwrecks in summer or observing one of the two coastal shipwrecks off the shore of Paphos—I highly recommend visiting the Edro III shipwreck. Both Paphos and Nicosia are vibrant, multicultural cities with excellent Nepalese and Filipino communities and restaurants. I also recommend visiting Golden Donkey, Cyprus’ leading producer of Donkey Milk Liqueur (which is made from actual donkey milk), as well as the abandoned Kokkinogia Mine, located south of Nicosia.

HOPE AMIDST DIVISION

While the prospect of unification may seem distant, many Cypriots, both Greek and Turkish, remain hopeful for a peaceful resolution. In the meantime, Cyprus continues to straddle worlds—caught between its rich history, its divided present, and the hope of a united future.